How to use a jigsaw properly — choosing the right blade, what the orbital setting does, stopping the cut going out of square, and getting clean edges on laminate.
A jigsaw is the most versatile saw a DIYer can own. It cuts curves, straight lines, holes in the middle of panels, metal, plastic and tile. It is cheap, safe compared with a circular saw, and it fits in a drawer.
It is also the tool people complain about most, and almost always for the same two reasons:
- The cut is not square. The blade wanders and leans, so the underside of a thick board comes out at an angle.
- The edge is splintered. Especially on plywood and laminate.
Both are fixable, and neither is really the saw’s fault. Blade choice fixes most of it, and the orbital setting fixes the rest. Those two controls are what this guide is really about. 💡
Alt text: “Jigsaw cutting a curve in plywood with the baseplate flat and the blade following a pencil line”
- How a jigsaw actually cuts
- Blade choice — the thing that matters most
- The orbital setting explained
- Speed settings
- Stopping the cut going out of square
- Stopping splintering
- How to make a cut, step by step
- Curves, holes and awkward cuts
- Metal, plastic and other materials
- Common mistakes (and how to fix them)
- Pro tips worth knowing
- The blades I recommend
- Frequently asked questions
- Your final checklist
How a Jigsaw Actually Cuts
A narrow blade moves rapidly up and down through the material while you push the saw forward. Because the blade is narrow, it can turn — which is what makes curves possible.
Two consequences follow, and they explain both of the common complaints:
1. Standard blades cut on the UP stroke. The teeth pull upward through the material. That means the underside is cut cleanly and the top face tears out.
2. The blade is only supported at the top. The bottom end is free, so under sideways pressure it can flex and lean — especially in thick material. That is why cuts drift out of square.
The blade is a thin strip of steel held at one end and pushed through wood. Everything that goes wrong with a jigsaw comes from that fact — and everything that fixes it is about supporting or choosing that blade better.
The immediate practical rule: because the top face tears out, cut with the good face DOWN — the same rule as a circular saw, and for the same reason.
Blade Choice — the Thing That Matters Most
Blade choice affects a jigsaw’s performance more than the price of the saw does. A cheap saw with the right blade beats an expensive one with the wrong blade.
Shank type
T-shank is the modern standard and fits almost everything. U-shank is older. Check what your saw takes — most tool-free clamps are T-shank.
Teeth per inch (TPI)
| TPI | Cut | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| 6–8 | ✅ Fast, rough | Thick softwood, rough cuts |
| 10–12 | Balanced | ✅ General purpose wood |
| 14–20 | Slower, cleaner | Plywood, hardwood, fine work |
| 21–36 | ⚠️ Slow | Metal, thin sheet |
The rule for metal: at least three teeth must be in contact with the material at all times. Too few and the blade snags and snaps.
Tooth direction — the one people do not know
- Up-cut (standard) — teeth point up. Fast, but tears the top face.
- Down-cut (reverse tooth) — teeth point down. Cuts on the down stroke, so the top face stays clean. Ideal for laminate worktops, melamine and anything where the good side must face up. Slower, and the saw wants to lift, so hold it down firmly.
Blade width and thickness
Narrow blades turn tighter curves. Wide, thick blades resist flexing and stay square — which is the fix for out-of-square cuts in thick stock.
Material
HCS (high carbon steel) is flexible and suits wood. HSS is harder, for metal. Bi-metal combines both and lasts much longer. Carbide grit blades cut tile and fibre cement.
The Orbital Setting Explained
Most jigsaws have a small lever or dial marked 0 to 3. This is the orbital action, and it is widely ignored.
On zero, the blade simply moves straight up and down. Switch orbital on and the blade also swings forward into the cut on the up stroke and back away on the down stroke — an oval motion rather than a straight line.
What that does: the teeth bite more aggressively, clear waste faster, and the saw cuts noticeably quicker with less effort. It also makes the cut rougher.
| Setting | Speed | Finish | Use for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 | Slowest | ✅ Cleanest | Metal, tight curves, laminate, fine work |
| 1 | Moderate | Good | Hardwood, plywood, controlled cuts |
| 2 | Fast | Moderate | ✅ General softwood |
| 3 | ✅ Fastest | ⚠️ Roughest | Thick softwood, rough cuts |
Two rules to remember:
- Turn orbital OFF for curves. The forward swing makes the blade want to run straight, so it fights the turn and can twist the blade.
- Turn orbital OFF for metal. It causes snagging and breaks blades.
Speed Settings
Most jigsaws have variable speed on the trigger and often a dial to set a maximum.
- High speed — softwood, plywood, general wood cutting.
- Medium — hardwood, thick stock, plastics that might melt.
- Low — metal, tile, tight curves, anything where control matters more than pace.
Plastics and laminates melt at speed. If the cut is gumming up and the blade is dragging melted material, slow down.
Metal needs slow speed and cutting fluid. A drop of oil along the cut line extends blade life considerably.
Stopping the Cut Going Out of Square
The most common jigsaw complaint: the top of the cut follows the line, but the underside is off by several millimetres and angled.
Why it happens: the blade is only held at the top. Sideways force — from pushing too hard, forcing a curve, or the blade hitting harder grain — makes the free end flex and lean.
How to fix it, in order of effect:
- Use a thicker, wider blade. Blades sold as “clean for wood” or progressor types with a thicker body resist flex far better. Narrow scrolling blades are the worst offenders.
- Slow down and stop pushing. Let the blade cut at its own rate. Forcing is the main cause of flex.
- Turn orbital down or off. Aggressive orbital settings increase side loading.
- Use a blade guide if your saw has one. Some models have rollers or guides close to the material that support the blade.
- Check the baseplate is square to the blade with a small square. Factory settings drift.
- Accept the limits. Beyond about 30–40mm of hardwood, a jigsaw will struggle to stay square regardless of technique. That is circular saw or bandsaw territory.
Stopping Splintering
Standard blades cut on the up stroke, so the top face tears out. Five ways to deal with it:
- Good face down. The simplest and most effective. The underside is cut cleanly.
- Down-cut blade. When the good face must be up — laminate worktops in place, for instance — a reverse-tooth blade cuts on the down stroke and leaves the top clean.
- Masking tape along the cut line. It holds surface fibres down. Cut through the tape.
- Splinter guard. Many saws come with a small clear plastic insert that fits into the baseplate and closes the gap around the blade. Most people lose it in a drawer — it genuinely works.
- Higher TPI and orbital off. Slower and cleaner.
Any remaining roughness sands out quickly — see sanding plywood.
How to Make a Cut, Step by Step
Step 1 — Choose and fit the blade
Match TPI and type to the material. Push it fully into the clamp until it clicks, then tug to check.
Step 2 — Set orbital and speed
Zero orbital for curves, metal and laminate. Higher for fast straight cuts in softwood.
Step 3 — Support the workpiece
Clamp it, with the cut line overhanging the bench or supported on foam. The blade needs clearance below — check nothing is under the cut line, including the bench itself.
Step 4 — Good face down
Unless you are using a down-cut blade.
Step 5 — Mark the line clearly
And fit the splinter guard if you have it.
Step 6 — Rest the baseplate on the work, blade clear
Front edge of the plate down, blade not touching the wood.
Step 7 — Start the saw before contact
Let it reach speed, then advance into the material.
Step 8 — Let the saw cut, do not push
Steady forward pressure only. Pushing hard is what makes the blade flex and wander.
Step 9 — Keep the baseplate flat
Rocking or lifting the front changes the blade angle and the cut goes out of square.
Step 10 — Follow through, then release
Cut past the end, release the trigger, and let the blade stop before lifting the saw.
Curves, Holes and Awkward Cuts
Cutting curves
Use a narrow blade and orbital off. Take it slowly and let the blade turn rather than twisting the saw. On tight radii, cut a series of relief cuts from the waste side into the curve first, so the waste falls away in pieces rather than binding the blade.
Interior cut-outs
Two ways in:
- Drill a starter hole in the waste area, large enough for the blade, then start the cut from there. The safe, reliable method.
- Plunge cut — rest the front edge of the baseplate on the work with the blade clear, start the saw, and pivot slowly forward until the blade enters. Only on softer materials, only with a robust blade, and never on metal or tile.
Cutting a circle
Some saws take a circle-cutting attachment with a pivot pin. Otherwise mark the line and cut freehand, staying slightly outside and sanding to the line — a spindle sander makes this easy.
Bevel cuts
The baseplate tilts, usually to 45 degrees. Check with a square rather than trusting the scale, and expect more blade wander on a bevel.
Flush and close-to-edge cuts
The blade sits forward of the baseplate, so a jigsaw cannot cut flush to a wall. Use a flush-cut saw or an oscillating multi-tool for that.
Metal, Plastic and Other Materials
| Material | Blade | Speed | Orbital | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Softwood | 6–10 TPI HCS | High | 2–3 | Fast and easy |
| Hardwood | 10–14 TPI bi-metal | Medium | 1–2 | Slower feed |
| Plywood | 14–20 TPI | Medium-high | 0–1 | ✅ Good face down |
| Laminate / melamine | Down-cut | Medium | 0 | ✅ Reverse tooth keeps top clean |
| Thin metal sheet | 21–32 TPI bi-metal | ⚠️ Low | 0 | Sandwich between plywood |
| Thicker metal | 14–18 TPI bi-metal | ⚠️ Low | 0 | Use cutting fluid |
| Plastic / acrylic | Fine TPI | ⚠️ Low | 0 | ⚠️ Melts if too fast |
| Tile / cement board | Carbide grit | Low | 0 | ⚠️ Dust mask essential |
The thin metal trick: sandwich sheet metal between two pieces of thin plywood and cut through the whole stack. It stops the sheet vibrating and tearing, and gives you a far cleaner edge.
Cutting fibre cement or tile generates silica dust — the same hazard covered in our concrete guide. Cut outdoors with extraction and a proper respirator.
Common Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
Mistake 1 — Pushing too hard
What happens: the blade flexes, the cut leans, and blades snap.
The fix: light forward pressure, let the saw set the pace.
Mistake 2 — Wrong blade for the material
What happens: slow, rough cuts, snagging, broken blades.
The fix: match TPI and blade type. Blades are cheap; frustration is not.
Mistake 3 — Orbital on for curves
What happens: the saw fights the turn and twists the blade.
The fix: orbital to zero for curves and metal.
Mistake 4 — Good face up with a standard blade
What happens: splintered tear-out on the visible surface.
The fix: good face down, or use a down-cut blade.
Mistake 5 — Expecting square edges in thick hardwood
What happens: the underside is several millimetres out.
The fix: thicker blade and slower feed, or use a different saw for that cut.
Mistake 6 — Not checking what is under the cut
What happens: you cut into the bench, a clamp or the floor.
The fix: the blade extends well below the material — check clearance every time.
Mistake 7 — Losing the splinter guard
What happens: avoidable tear-out on every cut.
The fix: keep it with the saw and actually fit it.
Mistake 8 — Blade not fully seated
What happens: it works loose mid-cut, which is both dangerous and ruins the cut.
The fix: push in until it clicks, then tug to confirm.
Pro Tips Worth Knowing
Buy blades in a mixed set
Having the right blade to hand is what stops you making do with the wrong one.
Cut on the waste side and sand to the line
Jigsaw cuts are rarely perfect. Cut slightly proud, then refine with a sander for a genuinely clean edge.
Relief cuts for tight curves
Several straight cuts from the waste edge into the curve let the waste fall away in chunks instead of binding.
Check the baseplate square annually
It drifts, and a degree of error puts a lean into every cut you make.
Keep the base clean and waxed
A smooth baseplate glides. Resin and dirt make it drag, which encourages you to push harder.
Blow the dust off the line
Many saws have a dust blower. If yours does, use it — following a line you cannot see is how cuts wander.
The Blades I Recommend
Blades matter more than the saw, and a mixed set means you always have the right one rather than making do.
50-Piece Contractor Jigsaw Blade Set with Storage Case
Best Blade Variety★★★★☆ 4.6 out of 5 on Amazon
The single biggest improvement most people can make to their jigsaw is having the correct blade in it. A mixed set covers coarse blades for fast cuts in softwood, fine blades for plywood and hardwood, and metal-cutting blades — so you stop forcing a wood blade through steel or fighting a coarse blade through ply.
At 50 pieces it is enough that you can afford to treat blades as consumables, which matters because a dull jigsaw blade is the direct cause of both wandering cuts and snapped blades. The storage case is not a trivial detail either — loose blades in a drawer are impossible to tell apart, so people end up grabbing whatever is on top.
Why it works:
- ✅ Right blade for the material — the fix for most jigsaw complaints
- ✅ Enough blades to treat them as consumables, so you stop using dull ones
- ✅ T-shank fits the tool-free clamps on most modern saws
- ✅ Case keeps them identifiable, which loose blades never are
- ✅ Covers metal as well as wood, extending what the saw can do
- ⚠️ Check whether down-cut blades are included. If not, buy a few separately — they are the ones that keep laminate and melamine tops clean
- ⚠️ Confirm your saw takes T-shank. Older saws use U-shank
Best for: general DIY, curve cutting, sheet goods, occasional metal work, and anyone whose jigsaw currently has one tired blade in it.
Not for: tile or fibre cement, which need carbide grit blades bought separately.
🛒 Check Price on AmazonPrice and availability change often — the button shows the live Amazon price.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my jigsaw cut not square?
Because the blade is only held at the top, so its free end flexes under sideways load and leans. The fixes, in order of effect: use a thicker, wider blade rather than a narrow scrolling one; stop pushing and let the blade cut at its own pace; turn the orbital setting down or off; and check the baseplate is square to the blade. Beyond about 30–40mm of hardwood, a jigsaw will struggle regardless — that is circular saw or bandsaw work.
What does the orbital setting on a jigsaw do?
It swings the blade forward into the cut on the up stroke and back on the down stroke, instead of moving straight up and down. That makes the teeth bite harder and clear waste faster, so the saw cuts much quicker — but rougher. Use higher settings for fast straight cuts in softwood, and turn it off for curves, metal, laminate and any cut where finish matters, because the forward swing fights turns and snags metal.
Which side should face up when cutting with a jigsaw?
With a standard blade, the good face goes down. Jigsaw teeth cut on the up stroke, so the underside is cut cleanly and the top face tears out. If the good face has to be upward — cutting a fitted laminate worktop, for example — use a down-cut (reverse tooth) blade, which cuts on the down stroke and leaves the top surface clean. Masking tape and the plastic splinter guard help too.
How do I cut a hole in the middle of a panel?
The reliable method is to drill a starter hole in the waste area, big enough to pass the blade through, then start your cut from there. A plunge cut is possible on softer materials — rest the front edge of the baseplate on the work with the blade clear, start the saw, and pivot slowly forward until the blade enters — but use a robust blade, and never attempt it on metal or tile.
What blade do I need to cut metal with a jigsaw?
A bi-metal blade with high TPI — 21 to 32 for thin sheet, 14 to 18 for thicker stock. The critical rule is that at least three teeth must be in contact with the material at all times, or the blade snags and snaps. Run at low speed with the orbital setting off, and use cutting fluid. For thin sheet, sandwich it between two pieces of plywood and cut through the stack for a much cleaner edge.
Why do my jigsaw blades keep breaking?
Usually pushing too hard, which flexes the blade until it fatigues. Other causes are the wrong blade for the material, orbital action left on for metal or tight curves, twisting the saw to force a turn, and using blades that are already dull. Ease off the forward pressure, match the blade to the job, turn orbital off for curves and metal, and replace blades before they go blunt — they are consumables.
Your Final Checklist
- Blade matched to material — TPI, type and shank
- Down-cut blade used if the good face must be upward
- Blade pushed fully into the clamp and tugged to check
- Orbital set — zero for curves, metal and laminate
- Speed set — low for metal, plastic and tight curves
- Workpiece clamped, with clearance below the cut line
- Good face down with a standard blade
- Splinter guard fitted, tape along the line if needed
- Cut line marked clearly and dust blower used
- Saw started with the blade clear of the material
- Light forward pressure only — not pushing
- Baseplate kept flat, not rocked or lifted
- Relief cuts used on tight curves
- Starter hole drilled for interior cut-outs
- Cut slightly on the waste side, sanded to the line
- Blade stopped before lifting the saw
- Eye protection and dust mask worn
Related reading: how to use a circular saw, how to use a spindle sander, and how to sand plywood.