How to use a cordless drill properly — what the clutch actually does, when to use each gear, drilling pilot holes, and driving screws without wrecking the head.
A cordless drill is the first power tool most people buy and the one they use least well. Not because it is difficult — because nobody explains the two controls that matter.
The numbered ring behind the chuck is the clutch. It sets how much twisting force the drill will apply before it slips and stops driving. Set it correctly and you cannot overtighten a screw, strip a screw head, or snap a screw off in the wood. Most people leave it on the drill symbol permanently and wonder why screws keep sinking too deep.
The other one is the gear selector — usually a slider marked 1 and 2 on top. Gear 1 is slow with high torque, for driving screws and big holes. Gear 2 is fast with less torque, for drilling small holes. Using the wrong one makes the tool feel weak or uncontrollable.
Learn those two and everything else follows. 💡
Alt text: “Cordless drill close-up showing the numbered clutch collar, gear selector and keyless chuck”
- Drill, driver or impact driver?
- The clutch, explained properly
- Gears and speed
- Using the chuck properly
- Drill bits and what they are for
- Pilot holes and countersinking
- Driving screws without camming out
- Step by step
- Looking after the battery
- Common mistakes (and how to fix them)
- Pro tips worth knowing
- What I recommend
- Frequently asked questions
- Your final checklist
Drill, Driver or Impact Driver?
Three names, and the difference matters when you are buying.
| Drill / driver | Impact driver | Hammer drill | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chuck | Keyless, holds round shanks | ⚠️ 1/4in hex only | Keyless |
| Has a clutch | ✅ Yes | ❌ No | ✅ Yes |
| Drilling holes | ✅ Yes, all types | ⚠️ Hex-shank bits only | ✅ Yes |
| Driving long screws | Adequate | ✅ Far better | Adequate |
| Control on small screws | ✅ Precise | ⚠️ Easy to overdrive | ✅ Precise |
| Masonry | ❌ Poor | ❌ No | ✅ Yes |
| Noise | Quiet | ⚠️ Very loud | Loud in hammer mode |
If you own one tool, make it a drill/driver. It drills and drives, takes any bit shank, and its clutch gives you control an impact driver cannot.
An impact driver uses rotational hammering to deliver bursts of torque. It sinks long screws effortlessly and will not cam out of the head — but it has no clutch, so it happily drives a small screw straight through thin material. Brilliant as a second tool.
A hammer drill adds a forward hammering action for masonry. Covered in our guide to drilling into brick and masonry.
The Clutch, Explained Properly
This is the section worth reading twice.
The numbered collar behind the chuck sets a torque limit. When the resistance reaches that limit, the clutch slips — you hear a ratcheting clatter — and the bit stops turning even though the motor keeps running.
What that gives you: a screw that stops at exactly the depth you want, every time, without you having to judge it by feel.
The clutch is not a beginner setting you graduate out of. It is the control that lets the tool judge depth for you — so your attention can go on holding the drill straight instead of feathering the trigger and hoping.
| Setting | Torque | Use for |
|---|---|---|
| 1–4 | Very low | Small screws, soft wood, hinges, delicate work |
| 5–10 | Low to medium | ✅ General screwing into softwood |
| 11–15 | Medium | Larger screws, hardwood, decking |
| 16–20+ | High | Long screws, dense timber |
| Drill symbol | ⚠️ Maximum, no slip | Drilling holes only |
| Hammer symbol | Max plus hammering | Masonry only |
How to find the right number: start low. Drive a test screw into an offcut of the same material. If the clutch slips before the screw is home, click up one and try again. Once it seats correctly, that is your setting for that screw in that material.
The drill symbol locks the clutch out entirely — full torque, no slipping. Use it for drilling. Leaving it there while driving screws is why people snap screws, strip heads and sink fixings straight through plasterboard.
Gears and Speed
The slider on top, usually marked 1 and 2.
- Gear 1 — low speed, high torque. Driving screws, large diameter holes, hole saws, spade bits, mixing. Slower rotation means more control and more turning force.
- Gear 2 — high speed, lower torque. Drilling small holes in wood, metal and plastic. Speed does the cutting.
The rule of thumb: big hole or screw, gear 1. Small hole, gear 2. If the drill is struggling and slowing under load, drop to gear 1.
Change gears with the motor stopped, and give the chuck a small turn by hand if the selector will not click across.
The trigger is variable speed. Squeeze gently to start slowly and increase as the bit bites. Starting at full speed causes bits to skate across the surface and screws to cam out.
Using the Chuck Properly
Most modern drills have a keyless chuck — you grip the sleeve and twist.
- Insert the bit fully so the jaws grip the widest part of the shank.
- Hold the bit centred and tighten by hand until it grips.
- Then give it a further firm twist — most slipping bits are simply not tight enough.
- Give the bit a tug to check.
Single-sleeve chucks lock automatically. Two-sleeve chucks need you to hold the back sleeve while turning the front.
If a bit keeps slipping: it is either not tight enough, the shank is damaged or rounded, or the chuck jaws are worn or full of dust. Blow the chuck out occasionally.
A slipping bit spins inside the chuck and rounds off its own shank, which makes the problem permanent. Fix it early.
Drill Bits and What They Are For
| Bit | Looks like | Use for | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Twist (HSS) | Spiral, pointed tip | Wood, metal, plastic | ✅ The general-purpose bit |
| Brad point | Spiral with a centre spur | Wood only | ✅ Cleaner, no wander |
| Spade / flat | Flat paddle | Large rough holes in wood | ⚠️ Tears the exit face |
| Forstner | Cylindrical cutter | Flat-bottomed clean holes | ✅ Best finish; use gear 1 |
| Hole saw | Toothed cup | Large holes, pipes, sockets | ⚠️ Grabby — two hands |
| Masonry | Wide carbide tip | Brick, block, concrete | Needs hammer action |
| Countersink | Cone shape | Recessing screw heads | Often combined with pilot |
For woodwork, brad point bits are a genuine upgrade over twist bits. The centre spur stops the bit wandering when you start, and the outer spurs score the fibres so the hole edge is clean rather than torn.
Spade and Forstner bits and hole saws need gear 1 and a firm two-handed grip. They remove a lot of material and grab hard.
Pilot Holes and Countersinking
A pilot hole is a small hole drilled before the screw goes in. It is the difference between joinery that lasts and split timber.
Why it matters: a screw is a wedge. Driving it into solid timber forces the fibres apart, and near an end or edge — or in hardwood — that splits the wood. A pilot hole removes the material the screw shank needs, so only the threads bite.
When you genuinely need one:
- Hardwood, always.
- Near an end or edge of any timber.
- Large screws in anything.
- Thin material that would split.
- When you want the joint to pull tight — see below.
What size: roughly the diameter of the screw’s solid core, not including the threads. Hold the drill bit up in front of the screw — you should see the threads sticking out either side of the bit but not the core.
The clearance hole trick. For two pieces being joined, drill the top piece slightly larger, so the screw passes through without gripping, and pilot the bottom piece normally. The screw then pulls the two pieces tightly together instead of jacking them apart. This is how a screwed joint closes properly, and most people never do it.
Countersinking cuts a cone so the screw head sits flush or below the surface. Combined pilot-and-countersink bits do both in one operation and are excellent value.
Driving Screws Without Camming Out
Camming out is when the driver bit slips out of the screw head under load, chewing the head. Three things cause it.
1. Wrong bit type or size
Phillips (PH), Pozidriv (PZ) and Torx (star) heads look similar and are not interchangeable. A PH bit in a PZ screw sits at the wrong angle and will cam out under any real torque. Look closely at the screw head — Pozidriv has small extra lines between the main slots.
Size matters too: a PZ2 bit in a PZ1 screw wobbles and rounds the head.
2. Not enough downward pressure
Push firmly into the screw, in line with it. The bit needs to stay seated. Most cam-out is under-pressure, not over-torque.
3. Wrong speed and clutch
Start slowly with the trigger, use gear 1, and set the clutch so it slips before the screw is overdriven.
Also: keep the drill square to the screw. Any angle levers the bit out of the recess.
If a head is already rounded: a screw extractor bit, or grip the head with pliers if it stands proud. Rubber band trick — a wide rubber band between the bit and the head can give enough grip to back it out.
Step by Step
Step 1 — Choose the bit and check the screw type
Match PH, PZ or Torx, and the right size.
Step 2 — Fit the bit and tighten firmly
Fully in, then an extra firm twist.
Step 3 — Set the gear
Gear 1 for driving and large holes, gear 2 for small holes.
Step 4 — Set the clutch
Low to start. Drill symbol only for drilling.
Step 5 — Mark the position
A pencil cross, or a tap with a nail punch to stop the bit wandering on metal.
Step 6 — Drill the pilot and clearance holes
Clearance in the top piece, pilot in the bottom.
Step 7 — Countersink if the head must sit flush
Step 8 — Start slowly, square to the work
Gentle trigger, firm forward pressure, drill in line with the screw.
Step 9 — Let the clutch stop you
When it ratchets, the screw is home. Do not override it.
Step 10 — Test on an offcut first
Especially with a new material or screw size. Two minutes saves a split workpiece.
Looking After the Battery
Lithium-ion batteries are the expensive part of a cordless tool, and a few habits make them last far longer.
- Do not store them fully flat. Deep discharge is what kills lithium cells. If a battery is empty, charge it before it goes on the shelf.
- Do not store them fully charged for months either. Around half charge is kindest for long storage.
- Keep them out of extreme heat and cold. A van in summer or a shed in winter shortens their life noticeably. Let a cold battery warm up before charging.
- Stop when the tool bogs down. Running a battery hard when nearly flat generates heat and stress.
- Let them cool before charging after heavy use.
- Keep the contacts clean and free of dust.
Our guide to choosing cordless tool batteries covers voltage, amp-hours and platforms in detail.
Common Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
Mistake 1 — Leaving the clutch on the drill symbol
What happens: screws overdriven, heads stripped, screws snapped, fixings pulled through plasterboard.
The fix: use the numbers for driving. Drill symbol for drilling only.
Mistake 2 — Wrong gear
What happens: the drill feels weak on big holes, or uncontrollable on small ones.
The fix: gear 1 for driving and large bits, gear 2 for small holes.
Mistake 3 — No pilot hole
What happens: split timber, especially near ends and in hardwood.
The fix: pilot at the screw’s core diameter, plus a clearance hole in the top piece.
Mistake 4 — PH bit in a PZ screw
What happens: the bit cams out and chews the head.
The fix: look for the extra lines that mark Pozidriv, and match the bit.
Mistake 5 — Not tightening the chuck enough
What happens: the bit spins, rounds its own shank and becomes useless.
The fix: hand tight, then a further firm twist, then tug to check.
Mistake 6 — Starting at full trigger
What happens: the bit skates across the surface or the screw cams out.
The fix: squeeze gently, build up speed as it bites.
Mistake 7 — One hand on a large bit
What happens: the bit binds and the drill twists your wrist.
The fix: two hands and a side handle for spade bits, Forstners and hole saws.
Mistake 8 — Storing batteries flat
What happens: deep discharge permanently reduces capacity.
The fix: charge before storing, keep them at moderate temperature.
Pro Tips Worth Knowing
Hold the bit against the screw to size a pilot
You should see the threads either side of the bit but not the solid core. Quicker and more reliable than a chart.
Use tape as a depth stop
Visible, free, and it prevents drilling through the other side.
Drill a clearance hole in the top piece
It is what makes a screwed joint pull tight rather than jack apart.
Keep a magnetic bit holder in the chuck
It extends reach, holds screws for one-handed starts, and lets you swap bits without touching the chuck.
Wax the screw threads
A rub of candle wax or soap on the threads dramatically reduces driving torque in hardwood and reduces snapping.
Buy a second battery before a bigger drill
Running out of charge mid-job is a far more common problem than lacking power.
What I Recommend
The drill itself matters less than what you put in it. A good bit set is the upgrade that fixes most cam-out and stripped-screw problems.
DEWALT DW2166 Screwdriver Bit Set with Tough Case, 45-Piece
Best Everyday Bit Set★★★★★ 4.8 out of 5 on Amazon
Most stripped screw heads come from using the wrong bit — a Phillips in a Pozidriv screw, or a size 2 where a size 1 belongs. A proper set removes that problem by giving you the right bit for the screw in front of you rather than the nearest thing in the drawer.
This set covers the common drive types and sizes with a magnetic bit holder included, which is genuinely one of the most useful items in it — it extends your reach into recesses, holds the screw so you can start one-handed, and saves opening the chuck every time you change bit. The case matters more than it sounds: loose bits in a toolbox are how you end up guessing sizes.
Why it works:
- ✅ Right bit for the screw — the single biggest cause of cam-out solved
- ✅ Magnetic holder lets you start screws one-handed and reach into recesses
- ✅ Covers PH, PZ, Torx and hex, so modern and older fixings are both handled
- ✅ 1/4in hex shanks fit a drill chuck and an impact driver alike
- ✅ Organised case means you can actually find the size you need
- ⚠️ These are driver bits, not drill bits. You still need twist or brad point bits for holes
- ⚠️ Match the size, not just the type. A PZ2 in a PZ1 screw still rounds the head
- ⚠️ Replace worn bits. A rounded bit chews screws — they are consumables
Best for: general DIY, flat-pack assembly, decking and fencing, cabinet fitting, and anyone who keeps stripping screw heads.
Not for: drilling holes — buy a separate twist and brad point bit set for that.
🛒 Check Price on AmazonPrice and availability change often — the button shows the live Amazon price.
Comparing drills themselves? See our roundups of budget cordless drills and cordless hammer drills.
Frequently Asked Questions
What do the numbers on a drill mean?
That is the clutch, and it sets a torque limit. When resistance reaches the set level the clutch slips with a ratcheting sound and stops driving, so a screw seats at exactly the depth you want without being overdriven. Low numbers for small screws and soft wood, higher for large screws and hardwood. The drill symbol locks the clutch out for full torque — use it for drilling holes only, never for driving screws.
What is the difference between gear 1 and gear 2?
Gear 1 is slow with high torque — use it for driving screws, large diameter holes, spade bits, Forstner bits and hole saws. Gear 2 is fast with less torque — use it for drilling small holes in wood, metal and plastic, where speed does the cutting. If the drill is bogging down under load, drop to gear 1. Change gear with the motor stopped.
Why do my screws keep stripping?
Usually the wrong bit. Phillips (PH) and Pozidriv (PZ) heads look almost identical but are not interchangeable — Pozidriv has small extra lines between the main slots, and a PH bit sits at the wrong angle in one and cams out. Size matters too. The other causes are not enough downward pressure, starting at full trigger speed, holding the drill at an angle, and leaving the clutch on the drill symbol so nothing stops the overdrive.
Do I need a pilot hole?
Always in hardwood, near the end or edge of any timber, with large screws, and in thin material that could split. Size it to the screw’s solid core, not the threads — hold the bit in front of the screw and you should see threads either side of it. Also drill a slightly larger clearance hole in the top piece so the screw passes through without gripping; that is what pulls two pieces tightly together rather than jacking them apart.
Should I buy a drill or an impact driver?
Start with a drill/driver. It drills holes and drives screws, takes any bit shank, and its clutch gives precise control an impact driver lacks. An impact driver is a superb second tool — it sinks long screws effortlessly and rarely cams out — but it has no clutch, so it will drive a small screw straight through thin material before you react. Many people end up owning both.
How do I make my drill batteries last longer?
Do not store them fully flat — deep discharge is what kills lithium cells, so charge a spent battery before it goes on the shelf. For long storage, around half charge is kindest. Keep them out of extreme heat and cold, let a hot battery cool before charging, stop working when the tool starts bogging down, and keep the contacts clean. These habits make a bigger difference to battery life than the brand does.
Your Final Checklist
- Screw head type identified — PH, PZ or Torx
- Correct bit type and size selected
- Bit seated fully and chuck tightened with an extra firm twist
- Gear 1 for driving and large holes, gear 2 for small holes
- Clutch set by testing on an offcut
- Drill symbol used only for drilling
- Pilot hole sized to the screw’s core diameter
- Clearance hole drilled in the top piece
- Countersunk where the head must sit flush
- Tape wrapped on the bit as a depth stop
- Position marked, or punched on metal
- Started slowly with the trigger, square to the work
- Firm forward pressure to keep the bit seated
- Two hands and side handle on spade bits, Forstners and hole saws
- Clutch allowed to stop the drive
- Eye protection worn
- Batteries charged before storage, kept at moderate temperature
Related reading: drilling into brick and masonry, choosing cordless tool batteries, and the best budget cordless drills.